Download Ebook All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora, by David Rensin
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All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora, by David Rensin
Download Ebook All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora, by David Rensin
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Review
“The most complete portrait of Dora ever painted, but also a solid recounting of surfing’s original boom years and a thin, peculiar slice of Americana in the late 1950s and early 60s... All for a Few Perfect Waves is much more than just another day at the beach.” (Los Angeles Times Book Review)“Until now enigmatic surfer legend Miki Dora’s history was written only in water, but David Rensin’s primo All for a Few Perfect Waves catches the life of this charismatic renegade.” (Vanity Fair)“Engrossing… Rensin proves an inexhaustible interviewer, teasing out colorful tales never before set in print.” (Men's Vogue)“In this vivid biography, Rensin takes on a daunting task: to clarify the clouded myth of legendary surfer Miki Dora ... Rensin lets Dora’s friends, lovers and rivals tell the story. The result brings a remarkable focus to a man whose greatest accomplishments were written on water.” (Publishers Weekly)“Above and beyond the call of unearthing the mystery that was Dora…a stunningly comprehensive tome…[an] incomparable body of work which will mess with both your mind and heart, the likes of which may forever set the literary sandbar, and rightfully so.” (Eastern Surf Magazine)“Waves attempts to decode Dora through a near-cacophony of storytellers, ranging from the personal and intimate (ex-lovers and family) to the scurrilous and picaresque (whore-hopping pals, partners in crime)… should close the door on the need for further explorations of Da Cat.” (The Surfer's Journal)“David Rensin doesn’t shy from documenting Dora’s multitude of sins—the stealing and swindling, the juvenile pranks, the prison terms—even as he celebrates the man’s desire to live of a life of utter, and often utterly irresponsible, freedom.” (Los Angeles Magazine)“Miki took to his grave many stories that no one will ever know, but this book will also tell many and give new insight into his life. In the end only a select group knew the real person. I’m not sure I did-but almost.” (Kelly Slater, best-known surfer in the world)“For fifty years, surfing in Southern California has been shrouded in a myth wrapped in an enigma by the name of Miki Dora. Now, we have the facts. A magnificent book.” (Kevin Starr, California Librarian Emeritus and professor at University of Southern California)“From the depths of hell to flying as high and as free as an eagle - and everything in between - All For a Few Perfect Waves left me laughing and crying at the same time.” (Greg Noll, world-renowned big wave rider)
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About the Author
David Rensin worked closely with Louis Zamperini for many years and cowrote Devil at My Heels, as well as fifteen other books, including five New York Times bestsellers.
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Product details
Paperback: 528 pages
Publisher: It Books; 1 edition (March 24, 2009)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0060773332
ISBN-13: 978-0060773335
Product Dimensions:
6 x 0.8 x 9 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.9 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.3 out of 5 stars
71 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#547,674 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Even though I was 13 years younger than Miki Dora, I still remember him showing up at our surf spot (circa '63, '64) at Sunset when the surf would inexplicably be down at Malibu. We were pretty good surfers at the time (Hoshi Surf Club), but not in the same league as Dora, so we would respectively get out of the water and sit on the cliffs while Dora and his coterie of 'hanger-ons' would put on a show for the crowd.Love this account of Dora's life, especially since it's told in vignettes of people who knew him. This is my second reading of Rensin's biography.
I know I did. But in the end, after Mr. Dora scams many across the globe, gets caught, does time, finds *some* post-penitentiary maturation and solace on Jeffries Bay in South Africa (and Biarritz, France), and copes with pancreatic cancer (which brought tears to my eyes), I was glad to have read this book to see some form of redemption in his character. What a romp! While I don't surf, Miki's divorced parents and hard-headed Eastern-European father definitely resonated with my own experience and his quest for tranquility by water and dislike of corporate culture resonated even more.The book itself can be somewhat confusing given the amount of contributions--there are a lot of stories to follow--but hats off to David Rensin for the monumental task of bringing it all together. (In retrospect, I wonder if childhood trips to Malibu ever afforded a glimpse of Da Cat from afar.)"All for a Few Perfect Waves" was recommended on a SUP forum along with Susan Casey's books, Blue Mind, Soul of an Octopus, Jaimal Yogis' books, Chris Dixon's "Ghost Wave", Daniel Duane's "Caught Inside", and so on.
Rensin has really done his homework and found out every minute detail there is to know about Miki Dora. He paints an enticing picture of the guy and it's worth it to know all these facts about the guy. And, to his credit, he doesn't glorify the guy too much, but paints a portrait of the narcissistic character that he must have been. I don't like Miki Dora after reading this. The writing isn't spellbinding, but it is interesting and seems quite accurate. It isn't like Rensin's goal was to 'put an end to the legend,' or 'tell the inside truth' about Miki. Because he's really nice about everything he says. Still, the guy comes off as a total jerk who looked pretty good out there on a board and pulled off some daredevil board maneuvers, and some nice postures on the board that caught on and made other riders want to copy him. . . more by virtue of his personality than any super-amazing skill as a surfer. That this type of arrogance and chicanery was lauded and emulated, says something about the surfer culture. He was one of the originals and, therefore, he set the tone and gave charisma and charm to a simplistic, down-to-basics way of existing. Appealing, maybe, if you're Adam or Eve, or a caveman. Or, totally into sun, surf, sex, speed, and substances . . . but kind of sad as an example of a role model for future generations of surfing aficionados. The problem is that a writer of a book like this cannot be too hard on the subject of the biography. Because who would buy it then, only to hear a mainstream voice once again criticizing a rebel-hero? As a writer, you kind of have to like this guy if you want people to buy your book. But, even so, Rensin is honest in his portrayal -- and perhaps that's what keeps the book from being a five-star gripping read. He sacrifices a totally compelling story built on playing the conflict and inner psychological conflict besetting a character in a leadership position for accuracy. He did allow the facts to dampen the impact of what might have been a super-compelling story. I give him credit for that because in my mind, facts are more important than story. (Maybe Dora was so shallow he had no conflict or guilt, but I don't believe it.) Even so, it is not a boring book. But also not one of those that you have to read in one or two (or three) sittings because you can't put it down. You CAN put it down, but you also can skip around in it and read 'the good parts' without feeling you've missed something essential. I'm glad to have this as part of my book collection even so.
I live in land locked Idaho, have lived in South Florida where the surfing is almost a joke, unless its hurricane season; have never surfed nor desired to try but found this biography extremely compelling. I was riveted from the start and found Miki's complex nature to be fascinating. He was easy to hate and as easy to love. The work to put this biography together must have been exhausting. Rensin has done an excellent job of wrapping it all up into a very readable book. I would highly recommend it to anyone, regardless of their status on surfing.This book is about so much more than surfing. Miki is a character with extreme depth and I wonder if anyone really knew the "real" man. I can feel his pain as surfing became everyone's playground. I felt the same way about snow skiing when the shorter skis and the snow boarders started to claim the moutains I once dearly loved to ski--where suddenly everyone was doing it, regardless of ability, and it became harder and harder to find your "pure" space.This book makes you re-examine your own world view and often brings you up short if you approach the exercise honestly. I have kept this book in my library and do not lend it out for fear of losing track of it. It is not a throw away biography but a collectible book of strength, wit, misery, charm, bewilderment, and even humor. I believe what makes this book so tangible is its ability to strike us in the sore places of our own souls. It certainly made me think. Not only about Miki, which goes without saying, but about the changing world around us and how its affected our lives on a very personal level.The ending was agonizing for me and I cried often. I was quite taken with Miki's father and found his love boundless and Miki's demise sorrowful. To me, Miki's father allowed him to die with grace surrounded by his father's unconditional love. Many fathers would not have taken Miki back so completely given his past actions.I read the book a while ago, so it's hard to dredge up specifics, but this is a great read. I would highly recommend it. The pictures add much to the overall thrill of the biography. KUDOS to David Rensin. You managed a very tough assignment in a very balanced way!
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